Glossary of Textile Terms

Abrasion test: An abrasion test is carried out in the textile industry to replicate wear and determine the durability of a fabric.

Acetate: A manmade material that is also known as cellulose acetate. It’s created by combining natural fibres derived from cellulose (wood pulp) with synthetic fibres.

Acrylic: A fabric made from a synthetic polymer.

Airlume cotton: A type of combed and ring spun cotton that is regarded as very high quality. It’s seen in Bella + Canvas tees.

Anti-pill: This refers to material that doesn’t form those irritating little balls of fibre on its surface. You will often see anti-pill fleece as a selling point with garments and it tends to indicate superior quality.

Applique: An ornamental process where pieces of fabric are attached to a larger piece to form a pattern or picture.

Aqua film: A water soluble stabiliser used in embroidery

Argyle: A pattern consisting of diamond shapes. Incidentally, it’s believed to be an evolution of tartan.

Balanced plain weave: A plain weave where the warp and weft threads are the same size with the same spacing.

Bamboo: This is a sustainable, natural fibre and can be found in many items these days. And that includes eco-friendly t-shirts made for custom printing. For example, a mix of bamboo viscose and organic cotton.

Barathea: Sometimes known as barrathea, this is a soft, ribbed twill fabric. Traditionally made from wool or silk but these days also man-made. It’s used to make a variety of clothes including coats and uniforms.

Bark cloth: A somewhat vintage fabric. Originally made from the bark of tress. Hence the name. The modern version is made from densely woven cotton and has a rough textured appearance that is still vaguely reminiscent of tree bark.

Batik: A method of dying cloth that originates in Indonesia. Traditionally, it uses wax on cotton to create areas on cloth that resist dye. Nowadays, you sometimes come across tees with a ‘batik’ look that is similar to tie-dye.

Batiste: Also known as lawn cloth in England. Lightweight and sheer, this is usually made from cotton or cotton blends and can be used to make items like dresses and blouses.

Belcoro® Yarn: This is a trademarked method of spinning cotton that produces a yarn that is soft and durable. It provides a good printing surface when made into t-shirts.

Bias: A bias cut is a diagonal cut (usually 45°) across the weave of fabric (known as grain). Clothing makers employ it when they want the fabric to be softer and have more give in it.

Biodegradable: A term that means the material will decompose naturally and therefore be friendlier to the environment.

Blackout: A textile term associated with furnishing. These fabrics are opaque and block light therefore making them ideal for curtains.

Bleaching: The process of removing the natural colour before something like dying.

Bleeding: Generally seen as a negative in fabric terminology, bleeding is the transfer of colour. It can happen to another surface or from one area of the fabric to another.

Blend: No list of textile terms would be complete without this. It’s when two or more different yarns are used to make a cloth. For instance, cotton and polyester are regularly blended to make t-shirts, hoodies and sweatshirts.

Bobbin: A spool around which thread is wound.

Bobbinet: Sometimes spelled as Bobinette, this is a soft net used in lingerie and millinery amongst other things.

Bombazine: A twill fabric that was traditionally made of silk and silk and wool but is now also made from cotton with wool or just wool.

Braiding: Intertwining three or more fibres to create a thin strip of fabric.

Broadcloth: A densely woven, mid weight, plain weave fabric that is sometimes used to make shirts, skirts and blouses.

Brocade: A rich fabric that has raised pattern. Mainly used to make formal or evening wear with clothing.

Brocatelle: Similar to but heavier than brocade, brocatelle is distinguished by its raised somewhat puffed figures or patterns.

Brushed: This denotes that one side of the material has a soft, fluffy texture with brushed cotton. Something that’s achieved by a mechanical brushing. The term brushed fleece is very common in blank clothing.

Buckram: A stiffened, hard wearing fabric that is used in hat making.

Bundle: Bundling is a term used in the garment industry. Whereby factory workers tie together the cut garment components into specified numbers.

Burlap: Otherwise known as jute. This is heavy, dense, plain weave fabric with a coarse texture. Jute tote bags are an example in the custom merch market.

Calendar: A machine that uses rollers to finish cloth and in the process can smooth or give texture to woven cloth.

Calico: This is an inexpensive cotton textile that’s not bleached or fully processed. You’ll find made bags, aprons and other practical items made from it because it’s strong, durable and cheap.

Cambric: A fine, dense fabric made from cotton or linen. Smooth, soft and lightweight, it’s popular for apparel such as shirts and dresses.

Canvas: Nowadays, canvas tends to be made from cotton fibres but hemp and linen were originally used. It’s a dense, heavy material and hence good for outdoor clothing and workwear.

Carded cotton: Carding is a process that untangles, cleans and mixes fibres to prepare them for spinning into yarn.

Cashmere: One of those textile terms that rarely appears in custom clothing. Due to its cost as much as anything else. It’s made from the hair of the Cashmere goat and is classed as a luxury fabric. And accordingly associated with high end apparel and products.

Cheesecloth: A loosely woven fabric traditionally used when making cheese but now widely used in kitchens as a method of straining liquids.

Chiffon: Lightweight and sheer, chiffon can be made from natural or synthetic fibres. It’s elegant qualities make it an obvious choice for items like lingerie, blouses and gowns.

Chintz: Originating in India, this is a patterned textile used in home furnishing.

Coated: Coated fabrics are those which have been treated to give them additional qualities such as durability.

Colour abrasion: With textile terms, this refers to the loss or fading of colour in an area of the material due to wear or rubbing.

Colour-fast: A textile term applied to dyed material where the colours resist fading or won’t run when washed.

Combed cotton: Combing is an extra step in manufacturing cotton which takes out short fibres and impurities. And the result is a higher grade of cotton.

Corn fabric: This is considered an eco-friendly alternative to polyester and nylon. Because corn fabric uses fermented sugars from corn and has lower energy impact. However, concerns have been raised over its use of pesticides, land and water. These aspects aside, it can be turned into lots of things including apparel.

Cotton: We’re all familiar with cotton. After all, this natural fibre that’s grown in the seed pod of a cotton plant is probably the most common fabric used to makes clothes on the planet. It’s generally accepted that Pima and Egyptian cotton are the highest quality forms of the material. Incidentally, the word cotton comes from the Arabic qutn or qutun.

Couching: A technique whereby a thread or number of threads are attached to cloth using finer stitches.

Count: Usually preceded by the word ‘yarn’, this is the diameter of thickness of yarns in terms of weight by length or vice-versa.

Coutil: A tightly woven textile with a herringbone pattern that was specifically created for making corsets.

Crepe: This is a textile that’s woven in a way that gives it a crisp rippled or crinkled texture. It can be made from natural or synthetic fibres. Historically, crepe was associated with mourning but became more widely worn in the 19th century.

Crepe de Chine: Similar to crepe, this material is made with twisted yarns and is light and soft. It has a markedly attractive, graceful drape.

Crinalin: A stiff mesh that’s used to add volume to skirts.

Cut: When you hear someone talk about the cut of an item it means the shape and styling of the garment.

Damask: A woven patterned fabric. It’s used for decorative items like jackets or evening gowns with clothes. In truth, you’re not likely to come across very much of it in the world of custom clothing.

Darts: Folds that are sewn to a point in order to form a piece of apparel to the wearer’s shape. Bust darts are an example.

Denim: Here’s another one that everyone knows. This heavy cotton twill originated in Nimes, France. Hence, the name. And we wouldn’t have jeans and denim shirts without it!

Dent: A part of the loom. Dents are effectively the teeth of the reed, the wires and slots through which the warp threads pass.

Devore: Also called Devoré or burnout, this term usually refers to velvets. Whereby the pile is burned away using a chemical treatment to create a pattern.

Digital printing: The process of printing a design onto fabric using an inkjet printer. There are a number of different types of digital print such as Direct to Film printing (DTF) and Direct to Garment printing (DTG).

Discharge printing: A screen printing process where the dyed colour on areas of a garment is reduced or removed and replaced. It’s sometimes called extract printing.

Dissolvable fabric: A fabric used in embroidery as a stabilizer that can be dissolved with water.

Domette: This is a textile used as interlining. That’s to say, between the lining and face fabric of something like a curtain.

Dobby: Sometimes referred to as Dobbie, this is a woven fabric made on a dobby loom. It gives a geometric texture to the material. Which you’ll know from piqué polo shirts.

Double-faced: Theses are fabrics where either side can be used. Also called double cloth or double weave.

Double knit: Double knits are heavier because they’re made using two sets of needles and therefore take more yarn. And therefore tend to be costlier.

Doubling: A broad textile industry term that is applied to a number of combination processes in spinning.

Down proof: This is a densely woven cotton used, as the name suggests, to prevent the down or feathers in bedding from coming out.

Drafting: An important one with fabric terminology, this is the thinning of fibres in order to get the desired thickness and strength. Which ultimately dictates the characteristics of the finished material.

Drape: One of our textile terms that’s pretty universal in so far as it refers to how a material hangs. Something which is clearly important to both the designers of clothes and those who wear them.

Drill: Cotton drill is hard wearing and typically has a diagonal pattern to the weave. And being comfortable and tough it crops up in workwear and items such as jackets and shirts.

Duck: Cotton duck is another heavy plain weave cloth. As such, the lighter weight versions of it are again used for work clothing and bags. By the way, the name originates from the Dutch word ‘doek’ which translates to ‘linen canvas’.

Dupion: Silk dupion is a textured silk that comes from India.

Dyeing: Of course, you’ll be aware of dye in the world of textiles. In simple terms, it’s how the cloth is coloured. The two most common dyes are natural and synthetic. The former are derived from plants or flowers. And the latter from a variety of sources such as metals, oxides, or sulphides.

Eco-friendly: Now, clearly this is something which goes far beyond textile terms and reaches into every walk of life. But the phrase eco-friendly fabric is no less important for that. Broadly speaking in this context, it denotes those fabrics which have a positive impact on our environment. For instance, organic cotton or recycled polyester.

Egyptian cotton: Grown in the Nile Delta, this variety of cotton is regarded as superior quality due to its long fibres. As a consequence, items made from it are also classed as being high quality.

Elastane: A manmade material, elastane is a generic name for materials like Lycra or Spandex. The main qualities of which are elasticity. These days, its applications are too numerous mention. It’s woven into many clothes to make them more flexible and figure-hugging. Especially sportswear and activity clothing in customisation. Which are not always easy to screen print. So, a technique like DTF printing can be a good idea.

Elastic: Similar to the above. Simply a stretchy material.

Emboss: Embossing is an interesting and attractive effect. In essence, it means creating a raised design on material. Something which is achieved using heat and pressure. And can be applied to all sorts. Including but not limited to cotton, linen and leather.

Embroidery: This is an ancient art. Put simply, it involves creating a design or pattern on fabric using needle and thread. Originally done by hand, our modern custom embroidery services employ highly sophisticated machinery.

Eyelet: Eyelet fabric features small cut-outs which are often embroidered. It’s usually made from cotton or a cotton blend.

Fabric: We can’t avoid a definition of fabric with a piece about fabric terminology. It’s a cloth or material made by weaving, knitting fibres or by a variety of non-woven methods.

Fabric width: There is a ISO standard for overall fabric width. But it can also be defined as the width which is usable.

Faille: We pronounce this as ‘fail’ here in the UK but it’s ‘file’ in the US. It’s a textile with flat ribs and can be used to make a broad range of clothing.

Fastness: With textiles, this usually refers to the colour fastness. That is, the resistance to loss or transfer of the dyed colour.

Felt: Rather than being woven, felt is formed by compressing and matting fibres. It can be used to make a number of things including clothes.

Figure: When we’re talking about making clothes, figure refers to the outline or shape of an individual.

Fine knit gauge: Gauge indicates the number of rows and stitches per inch in knitting. Hence lighter garments such as tees tend to be fine knit gauge and heavier items like hoodies would be heavier gauge.

Flame retardant: Having flame retardant properties means that a textile will slow or stop the spread of fire.

Flannel: A soft, woven fabric which can be made from natural or synthetic yarns. In truth, whilst items like shirts and sweaters can be made from it not that many are found in clothes designed for print and embroidery.

Flax: This is a bast fibre which means that it comes from the stem of a plant. And it’s what you use to make linen.

Fleece: Warm and cosy, we’re all familiar with fleece. It brings to mind sheep but most modern clothing made from fleece uses polyester.

Fusible: Fusible essentially means a fabric with adhesive on it when it comes to textile terminology. And it’s utilised as a backing in order to stabilise or add body to another material.

Gabardine: You’re likely to come across this with outerwear but it’s also used to make trousers, windbreakers and uniforms amongst other things. It’s costly to make and characteristically is tightly woven and waterproof.

Gauge: This can refer to several things with fabric terminology. But the number of stitches a garment has per inch of cloth is probably the most pertinent.

Georgette: A crepe type textile that’s thin and translucent and suited to making flowy, loose garments such as blouses and dresses.

Glazing: In textile terms, glazing is that lustrous, smooth finish which is achieved by calendaring.

Global Organic Textile Standard: This is one of those increasingly important textile terms. GOTS is probably the foremost certification for cotton being organically grown.

Grain: Much like wood, the grain of a fabric relates to the direction of threads in a weave. Garments are more comfortable when the cloth is cut in the direction of the grain. And it gets the most out the natural give in the cloth.

Greige: Incidentally, this is pronounced ‘grey’. It refers to the raw, unfinished fabric taken from the loom.

Grosgrain: Heavy and ribbed, this textile is commonly used to make ribbons.

GSM: Which is a very common textile term in custom clothing. It stands for grams per square metre and in effect denotes the weight of the fabric. For example, you see t-shirts that are 180gsm. Generally, tees tend to be 140/150gsm and upwards and sweats and hoodies 250gsm and higher. With fleeces being over 300gsm.

Habotai: A type of silk that’s fine, light and soft with an attractive drape.

Hair canvas: An interlining that’s used in tailoring to hold the shape of a garment. For example, an item like a formal suit where the sharp detail of the shape is important.

Half Panama: The distinctive thing with half Panama textiles is that there are two warp (vertical) to one weft (horizontal) yarns in the weave. Which produces a light but strong fabric with an even surface that’s popular for items such aprons and tea towels.

Hand: The hand of a fabric really just means how it feels. And lots of words can be used to describe the hand. Dry hand feel is a popular one.

Heat seal paper: This is used for applying cutting patterns to fabric.

Heddle: A component in a loom through which the warp (vertical) thread passes and which separates them from the weft (horizontal) threads.

Hemp: One of the textiles that is made from the stem of plants. It’s similar in that regard to linen, jute, flax, and bamboo. And hemp is becoming more popular in the fashion industry due to it being thought of as sustainable.

Herringbone tape: There are a variety of uses for herringbone taping. The most common with custom clothing is to decoratively cover seams and edges. It provides a more premium finish to garments. By the way, the name derives from the V-shaped pattern of the weave which resembles the spine of a herring.

Hessian: Usually coarse but sturdy, hessian is made from natural fibres such as jute and sisal. Common uses include the manufacture of bags and sacks.

Icewool: One of those intriguing textile terms although the definition is somewhat less exciting. It’s simply wadding that’s used in tailoring to pad or quilt areas of a garment.

Ikat: A traditional dyeing method where the design is created with parts of the cloth not taking colour. It employs resist dyeing techniques.

Indigo: A natural dye with a recognisable blue colour. It’s synonymous with blue jeans although not all jeans are dyed with indigo.

Interfacing: This is a material that’s found on the under side of certain clothes. The purpose of which is stiffen an area of a garment. For example, shirt cuffs and collars commonly have interfacing.

Interlining: Similar to interfacing in that it reinforces, interlining is a layer of fabric between the outer and inner materials.

Interlock: This is a type of fabric which is created by knitting two fabrics together. And results in something that’s thicker and reversible.

Jacquard: A fabric with a pattern woven into it which usually has a raised texture. These days, it’s most commonly found in things like curtains and duvets. Although you might still see it in formal clothing.

Jersey: A must for our list of textile terms, jersey is a single knit fabric which typically has a degree of stretch to it. There are different materials used to make it but you’re bound to own a cotton jersey t-shirt of or dress. If you’re wondering, the name originates from the island of Jersey where fishermen wore heavy, soft, knitted clothing.

Jute: As described with burlap. A dense, rough fabric sometimes used to make tote bags.

Kapok: Coming from the Kapok (Ceiba pentandra) tree, this is a fibre that’s used as a filling for things like bedding, furniture and toys. It’s seen by many as a sustainable alternative to polyester.

Kilim: An ancient type of woven textile without pile. It’s been used for a wide range of things including rugs, wall hangings and bags.

Knit: A method of producing textiles that uses a continuous yarn to create a series of interlocked loops. As a rule, knitted fabrics are somewhat stretchier than the woven variety.

Lampas: A luxurious type of fabric with a pattern woven into it.

Linen: A textile that is made from the stem fibres of the flax plant. Linen is characteristically lightweight and breathable. Which makes it comfortable for clothing as well as being popular for household goods.

Linen look: As you might expect, linen look fabrics are those which simulate the natural item whilst being made from something else such as cotton or polyester. As with natural linen, they have a slub appearance. That’s to say, a mix of different thickness fibres and small bobbles to the weave.

Loom: A piece of machinery used to weave cloth. Ancient in origin, the Industrial Revolution saw the automation of this sort of equipment.

Loopback: This is a form of knit that results in loops on the underside of a fabric. And it’s some textile terminology that you may encounter when looking at sweatshirts.

Lycra: A trademarked brand name, LYCRA® is a synthetic elastic fibre. The generic names are elastance or spandex.

Lyocell: Semi synthetic, this fibre is plant based but processed with man made substances. Generally, it’s used instead of cotton or silk.

Loomstate: This term refers to a fabric as it comes from the loom before being treated or finished.

Lurex: A fabric with metallic elements which is shiny and elastic in nature.

Marocain: Characterised by its ribbing, this is a crepe made from silk, rayon or combinations thereof.

Mercerization: A process whereby thread, yarn or cloth is treated to increase strength and lustre. Plus its ability to absorb dye. It involves soaking in sodium hydroxide. And was developed by John Mercer in 1844. Hence ‘mercerisation’.

Mesh: This is one of those general words in textile terminology that simply means a fabric which has noticeable spaces between the yarns.

Metallic thread: It’s often metallic thread when you see that extravagant gold or silver glint in a fabric. And it’s achieved by wrapping a slim metal strip around a cotton or silk thread as opposed to simply weaving with metal.

Microfibre: A synthetic material which is made up of extremely fine fibres. As such, it has all sorts of uses from cleaning cloths to clothing and plenty more besides.

Milk fabric: Also called casein fibre fabric or milk cotton, this is a textile that’s renewable and biodegradable. Due to the fact that it’s derived from a protein in milk. It can be used to make a wide range of clothing.

Millinery: Designing, making and selling hats and headwear.

Millinery net: A mesh that can be shaped for the making of hats.

Mitre fold: Now, there’s a good chance that you’ve seen this. It’s the style of the label often found in clothes. That is, a strip of fabric folded at 45 degrees to make a strap at either end which can be sewn into a seam. And the name comes from the shape of a bishop’s headwear.

Moire: Sometimes known as moiré, this fabric has an easily recognisable watery wave pattern. Most often made of silk, it can also be crafted from cotton, rayon or other things.

Moleskin: This heavy cotton has a brushed surface similar to suede. Hence the name. Making trousers was its traditional use although it’s utilised for other garments in the modern era.

Mordant: A substance (frequently a metallic oxide) that’s also known as fixative dye. It helps to create a chemical bond between the dye and the fibre in the dyeing process.

Muslin: This loosely woven cotton fabric comes in different weights and has a variety of applications. Including clothes, bedding and even in photography and the theatre.

Nap: The raised surface of a fabric. For example, the nap can be seen easily on something like velvet.

Natural fibre: Those that are derived from natural sources such as plants or animals and used to create textiles like cotton and wool for instance.

Needlecord: A fine corduroy that has 14 to 18 wales per inch. It tends to be softer to the touch.

Noil: When short fibres are removed during the manufacture of silk they can be reused. The result is noil silk which has a slightly rougher texture.

Nylon: This is a polymer derived from crude oil. It’s thermoplastic, meaning it becomes pliable with heat and then hard again when cooled. There are many different types of nylon and they’re used to make a wide variety of things. Amongst which is a variety of clothing such as shirts, jackets and active wear.

Organdy: This can also be spelled organdie. That aside, it’s a sheer, stiff type of plain weave cotton. You’ll find dresses and blouses made from it as well as collars and cuffs.

Organic: One of our favourite textiles terms. Organic textiles are grown free from harmful pesticides and fertilizers and are better for the environment.

Organza: Historically made from silk, organza is light and sheer. These days, you can get nylon and polyester and versions.

Organzine: A strong thread made from several strands of silk twisted together with the resultant fabrics regarded as high quality.

Oversized: A term in the fashion industry that means a garment is very roomy and has less structure or body shape than standard fitting.

Percale: A type of basic criss-cross weave which produces closely woven cotton that’s smooth and flat.

Pick: A single weft (horizontal) thread inserted through the warp threads.

Piece goods: Also called yard goods, piece goods were retail fabrics sold by a length specified by the customer.

Pile: Another term for nap, the raised surface of a fabric. By the way, the word comes from the Latin pilus meaning hair.

Pilling: This is what produces those small balls of material (pills) on the surface of some clothing. They can usually be removed without harming the garment but are nevertheless annoying.

Pineapple fabric: As you may guess, this is made from pineapple leaves and produces a lightweight but stiff material. It’s regarded as sustainable and eco friendly.

Pique: Another textile term that you will know. Especially if you’re into polos where shirts are regularly described as being made from pique cotton. The latter has a textured, geometric pattern that comes from this particular type of knit.

Placket: An integral part of many garments, the placket is that place where the buttons are located. You’re sure to have come across the term ‘two button placket’ when reading the details of a polo shirt that describes the buttons at the collar.

Plaid: This word has been with us for centuries. It indicates a pattern of intersecting stripes that form squares. Similar to a checkered pattern but less regular.

Plain weave: Simple and straightforward, plain weaves are made from horizontal and vertical threads of yarn passing over and under each other. It’s one of the oldest forms of weaving and has a multitude of uses.

Plying: Put simply, this means to twist strands of yarn together in order to form a stronger yarn. It makes for a more even and stable thread.

Point papers: Some fabric terminology that was used before advent of computerised design. Designs were drawn on gridded paper for manufacturers to make the textile.

Polycotton: One of those textile terms that pops up frequently in t-shirt descriptions. It simply means that the garment is made using a blend of cotton and polyester. The proportions of each can vary.

Polyester: Which brings us nicely to polyester, a synthetic fibre made from petroleum based chemicals. Apparel that includes polyester has become pretty much standard in modern times.

Poplin: A closely woven fabric made from cotton or silk with a fine crosswise ribbed surface. You’ll find a variety of clothing such as shirts, dresses, and raincoats made from poplin.

Powernet: Made with a blend of Spandex and nylon, powernet fabric has high support and compression properties. As a consequence, it lends itself well to sports and active wear.

Pre-shrunk: As you would expect, this means that the garment has undergone a process that reduces the chances of it shrinking when washed. It’s worth pointing out that you still need to follow the washing instructions even when apparel is described as pre shrunk.

Printing: We had to have printing in this glossary of textile terms given our area of speciality. And, needless to say, there are numerous ways to print artwork and logos onto fabric. It’s fair to say that screen printing and digital printing (DTF and DTG) are the two main options in the modern era.

Quill: A tube used on a loom.

Quilting: The process of sewing together layers of material. At least three layers are required for something to be classed as quilted.

Raising: In textiles terms, this is the process of giving a pile or fleece to a fabric. It’s usually achieved with mechanical rollers against the surface of the textile.

Raglan sleeve/shoulder: Popular with sweatshirts and activity gear, raglan is a diagonal seam from collar to underarm. It affords greater freedom of movement. Hence the use in sportswear. And originates from a garment designed for Baron Raglan (Fitzroy James Henry Somerset) after losing an arm in the Crimean War. Interestingly, there are number of raglan variations.

Ramie: This is a very strong cellulose fibre. An eco-friendly fabric, it can be mistaken for silk or linen.

Rapier loom: A loom without shuttle loom where a steel rod (a rapier) carries yarn across the shed of warp yarns to the other side of the loom.

Rayon: Classed as a semi-synthetic fibre, rayon is made from things like beech or bamboo. But the manufacturing process involves a lot of chemical treatment. Hence the classification.

Reactive dye: This describes a dye that forms a bond with the fibre of the material. And therefore resists fading and is colourfast even after repeated washing.

Recycled cotton: Nowadays, a number of plain clothing suppliers are making garments using recycled cotton. Unlike many forms of recycling, this is not normally made from ‘used’ items. As a rule, recycled cotton comes from in-house cutting waste.

Recycled polyester: Again, lots of manufacturers are now using recycled poly in their products. On the whole, this is made from plastic bottles. And, without doubt, reusing these bottles is far better than throwing them into landfill.

Reed: This is part of a weaving loom. It looks like a comb and is a frame with numerous vertical slits. And its purpose is to space the warp threads, guide the shuttle, and to push weft threads into position.

Repp: A fabric with fine cords across its width.

Resin: The resin finish is a compound applied to textiles that makes them non-iron and can improve durability.

Resist dyeing: A very old way of dyeing textiles where the dye is prevented from colouring all of the cloth.

Ribbed cuff/hem: Another feature found in blank clothing made to print and embroider. Long sleeve tees, hoodies and sweatshirts tend have ribbing to the cuff and/or hem. It just means that there a piece of material with stretch or a pleated knit to finish these areas. Something that’s both practical and decorative.

Sandblasting: When you see distressed denim jeans there’s a chance that they’ve been sandblasted. Firing abrasive sand at the fabric is a cheap way of getting the effect.

Sarsenet: A soft, fine silk with a number of spellings including sarsnet and sarconet.

Satin weave: This is one the basic weaving techniques that results in a smooth and usually somewhat shiny surface to the cloth.

Sanforizing: This is one of those textile terms with which you may not be familiar but will have encountered. It’s basically how fabrics are pre-shrunk to stop shrinkage when they’re washed and dried in everyday use.

Sateen: Fabric made from cotton or other materials that is less expensive than but has the character of silk satin.

Satin: A type of weave that creates a smooth, glossy material. Originally associated with silk but it can be used with terms such as cotton satin.

Scouring: The term used in textiles to prepare a fabric before another process. For example, removing impurities prior to dyeing.

Scrim: A lightweight textile that is often translucent.

Seersucker: Notable for its puckered appearance, this fabric is breathable and therefore good for hot weather clothing. Consequently, commonly used to make summer shorts, trousers, shirts and tops.

Selvedge: This is the edge of a piece of fabric where the yarns reverse direction and therefore do not unravel. By the way, referred to as selvage in the US.

Serge: A twill which features diagonal lines and is used for uniforms, suits and outerwear amongst other things.

Sericulture: The term for silk farming. That is, cultivating silk worms to produce silk.

Sett: With weaving, sett indicates the number of vertical threads for a given area and as such determines the density of a fabric.

Shed: In textile terminology, shed refers to the temporary opening of upper and lower warp threads to allow the weft threads to be passed through. Therefore creating the weave.

Shirting fabric: A catch all term for tightly woven fabrics suited to making shirts.

Shot silk: A form of silk that uses different coloured yarn to give an iridescent finish.

Silk: A natural protein, silk fibres are derived from the silkworm as it spins a cocoon. They’re harvested by being boiled in water. It is possible to make silk without killing the silkworm by allowing it to complete its life cycle before harvesting. This is known as Ahimsa Silk or peace silk and is considered less cruel. That said, plain products made of silk designed to be used in customisation are the exception rather then the norm.

Shoulder-to-shoulder tape: This is definitely some textile terminology you’re likely to see because it’s often found in t-shirt descriptions. It means that the shoulder and neck seams are covered by binding or tape. And usually denotes a higher quality garment due to the fact that it provides extra strength.

Shrinkage: In general terms, shrinkage in fabric is how much it changes during laundering. Now, with cotton for example, this may be a little as 2% if pre-shrunk. Certainly no more than 5%. However, with cloth that isn’t pre-shrunk and washed at high temperatures that can rise to as much as 20%.

Shuttle: Part of a loom, a shuttle is a carrier for weft yarn to pass back and forth between warp threads.

Side seam: Again, often seen in shirt descriptions. As you would expect it means that the garment has seams at the side. As opposed to the tubular variety which are made a single piece of material.

Side split: Common with polos and some t-shirts, a vent that is a split a couple of inches up from the shirt hem in the side seam.

Singeing: The meaning of singeing in textile terms is not unlike the standard definition of the word. With textiles, a singeing machine removes protruding fibres with heat to achieve a smooth surface. It’s sometimes known as the rather less obvious term of ‘gassing’.

Sizing: Now, this could simply be the system by which off the shelf clothes are measured. But in the context of textiles it can also be a preparatory treatment to strengthen and smooth yarn prior to weaving.

Split seam: Sometimes seen on the hems of garments such as t-shirts or polos, the split seam detail subtly changes the fit.

Stentering: A stenter machine is used in the textile industry to stretch, smooth and get the desired width with fabric before weaving.

Stone washed: A way to give material a distressed or worn effect by abrasion with pebbles or sand.

Stretch denim: A synthetic fibre like elastane or spandex is woven into denim to give it more elasticity. Which makes the resultant garments such as jeans more figure-hugging.

Stretch fabric: The general description for textiles that stretch. These are either described as 2-way or 4-way stretch depending on their construction and the directions in which they will stretch.

Strié: This is a decorative streak in fabric that is achieved by dying random threads in varying tones of the same shade.

Sublimation printing: Another digital printing technique where heat and pressure transfer dye onto the textile. For interest, polyester provides the best surface for this print method.

Suede: Leather with velvet or brushed texture.

Suedette: In essence, imitation or faux suede. It’s usually made of synthetic material.

Synthetic: In textile terms, synthetic means that a fabric is not from a natural source such as plants or animals but rather man-made using chemical processes. Polyester and acrylic are good examples.

Taffeta: This is a textile valued for its smooth crisp texture and lustre. It can be manufactured from silk or manmade materials and provides clothing as well as home furnishing.

Textile: A piece on textile terms needs a definition of the word itself. And that is a cloth or fabric.

Ticking: This tightly woven cloth was originally used to cover mattresses and pillows to ensure the stuffing did not come through.

Tie-dye: A method of colouring tees where parts of the cotton are tied to prevent them from absorbing the dye. It gives an irregular effect that varies with each garment.

Thread count: This bit of textile terminology refers to the number of threads in an inch of woven fabric. High thread count tends to be soft and supple because finer threads are needed to increase the count.

Toile: This word comes from the French for canvas. And it can mean a pattern or garment made as a test before creating the actual item. These test garments were traditionally of calico.

Tram silk: A form of silk thread that is not spun and has little twist which gives it great lustre.

Tubular: When you see a tee described as tubular construction it means that it’s been made from a tube of fabric. So, there are no side seams and the arms and collar are simply sewn on.

Tulle: This is a type of netting with a hexagonal pattern which is made from a variety of materials. Uses include wedding veils and ballerina skirts.

Twill: Cotton twill is tough and hard wearing due to its high thread count. Consequently, it’s used to make pants, jeans and jackets.

Twin needle stitching: One of those textile terms that crops up a lot. Double needle stitch creates the two parallel rows of stitching you find on clothes.

Twist: The degree to which a yarn is twisted has a direct effect on its softness and strength. And therefore a big impact on the products which are made from it.

Unfinished: A term that applies to textiles straight from the loom. As such, they’re unwashed and may be liable to shrinkage and still have a smell.

Unhemmed: One of those textile terms that you’ll see on product descriptions. It simply means a garment (most often trouser leg) or piece of fabric that’s not sewn.

UV resistant: This is a fabric which has been treated to resist UV rays.

Velvet: This material is characterised by its short, dense pile. Sleek and soft, velvet is a woven fabric which has a smooth wrong side where the weave is visible. Traditionally made from silk, nowadays it can be made from all sorts of materials such as cotton, wool, synthetic or blends.

Vented cuff: This is a design feature whereby the sleeve of a shirt, blouse or jacket has a vent to allow easier movement and more ventilation.

Viscose: Classed as semi synthetic, viscose is a rayon sort of fabric made from pulp. It’s an alternative to silk because it has similar characteristics and is cheaper to produce.

Voile: Lightweight, soft and sheer, this fabric is made from cotton or a cotton blend. You’ll find it used in soft furnishings.

Wadding: This is simply a layer of insulation between other layers of fabric. It can be made from a wide variety of things such as wool, polyester or mixed materials.

Wale: You know those lines that you get with corduroy? Well, they’re called wales. So, when you see cord described as 14-Wale it refers to the number of wales per square inch. A higher number such as 14 generally denotes a finer garment.

Warp & Weft: Whilst not usually found in product descriptions, these textiles terms are basics for cloth. Warp is the long yarn that runs vertically. And weft the yarn which runs horizontally. Think ‘weft is left’ to easily remember the set up.

Warping: Arranging yarn lengthwise on a loom. This ensures that the thread is set up properly before weaving.

Warp-faced plain weave: A plain weave where the warp threads are denser and carry the design of the material.

Waterproof: Simply put, waterproof fabrics are those which have been treated to not allow fluid to pass through them. And conform to a technical standard specifying as much.

Water repellent / Water resistant: Not to be confused with the previous definition. Water repellent or resistant is a general term with textiles meaning they can withstand a small amount of water. Whereas waterproof will be able to cope with greater amounts such as heavy rain.

Weave: One of the most basic of textile terms, this is the process by which woven cloth is created. Put simply, it requires two threads to be interlaced at right angles.

Weaver’s knot: A knot used to tie together two pieces of yarn. The most significant point with this knot is that it’s as small as possible.

Weft-faced plain weave: A plain weave where the weft threads are denser and can hide the warp threads.

Welt: A welt in clothing is a raised or strengthened seam.

Wet crocking: You can also have dry crocking. Both refer to the transfer of dye from a fabric to another surface due to abrasion.

Wool: A textile fibre that is derived from the hair of sheep and other animals.

Worsted: And talking of wool. Worsted is a high quality wool yarn. Incidentally, the name comes Old English and is for the village of Worstead in Norfolk.

Yard goods: These were textiles sold by the yard.

Yarn: Another essential with fabric terminology, yarn is a spun thread used in weaving, knitting and needlework.

Yarn count: With textile terms, yarn count refers to the diameter or fineness of yarn. Higher counts are heavier and coarser.

Yoke: A yoke is that shaped part of a garment that fits round the neck, shoulders or hips. It’s purpose was to give support to the looser sections of the item. For example, the body of a shirt or the gathering on a skirt.

Zero twist: You may see towels described as zero twist. It means that they are made of loops of twisted yarn and therefore very soft, absorbent and durable.

Zephyr: This lightweight cotton fabric is used to make blouses, dresses and shirts.